Wednesday the 23rd the whole fashion crowd moved to Milan because Milan Fashion Week started. And as Milan took over the fashion this week, London ended it. So before we plunge into the Italian glamour, let’s have a close look at London Fashion Week 2012 Spring Collections.
New York gave us sporty couture, colours, urban sexy attitudes and modern commercial clothes. It had spring fun and liveness written all over it. Now London, as everybody in fashion likes to point out, even though it stuck to the same colourful summer-ish theme, it brought, as always, more daring designs, artsy collections, chic, nonconformist, and creative clothes. Let’s have a look at some designers’ collections…
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
One of my favourite collections at London Fashion Week was Vivienne Westwood’s. She gave us a range of so many styles: Greek, draped, ruffled, voluminous – presented by nonchalant models, who looked exquisite in shirt dresses, pencil skirts, and enhanced waists, due to slim coloured belts. I loved the textures she used and the whole air of eccentricity mixed with sophistication.
You had to love Saunders collection. It had Glam Spring written all over it: bright colours, pastels, patterns, and those impossible-not-to-love Christian Louboutin platforms in deliciously sweet candy colours. The dresses were brilliant: sexy, modern, demure, feminine, with exquisite sweet and practical hidden pockets. I liked the silk and sweater combinations: the knee hemline, bright pastel, silky skirts worn with sexy, simple and so feminine tiny sweaters. It was a cool and beautiful collection.
As the designer went back to her Rio de Janeiro roots with this collection, we almost booked a vacation to the exotic cosmopolitan city. Watching the models in those beautiful pastels, bright marine colours, shorts, skirts, dresses, was a dive in the best days of summer. The whole collection had a summer’ish feeling to it, with flowing, flirty dresses, halter dresses, fringed party dresses, printed shorts, tiny tops. A flamboyant and full of life collection!
One word: Posh! Yes it was sexy, vamp-Ish, but feminine and soft altogether. This collection took us to the beach, the pier, the waves, those summer sassy days of nonchalant luxe and slouchy rich appearance. It was packed with flowing pleated skirts, high waisted pencil or large skirts, amazingly combined with simple girl-Ish tops in candy colours, with shrunken leather jackets thrown over, or canary yellow waterproof macs for a look to die for. A perfect play with proportions! Beautiful sun-dresses, rainy jackets, giant parkas, huge platforms and boxy coloured bags were all mixed up in the most modern and feminine approach we’ve seen. To push it further – over all this sporty-chic style, Mulberry added embroideries, animal prints, appliques for that rich luxuriant attitude. Amazing!
Top Shop Unique
This time, with Top Shop we’re off to Egypt or back to the 90′s. A very urban cool collection that combined the slouchy sporty oversized clothes to rich bold jewelry. Lots of oversized jerseys with jogging bottoms, baseball caps, tube skirts, bare midriffs, shining textures, full skirted dresses, sweat-heart shaped necklaces. And… lots of prints: graffiti and Egyptian (Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra was printed on a sweater), and gold embellishments. A street vibe collection.
Who other than Paul Smith can dress a woman like a man and make her look sexy and sophisticated! The whole collection was a creative display of simplicity and nonchalance. Beautiful colours, prints blocking, colour blocking, wrap skirts, relaxed blazers, cigarette or wide legged pants, below the knee skirts, sleeveless dresses, dropped waists, all comfortably worn with loafers. A beautiful, simple and confident collection.
A soft floral printed collection with subtle yellows, blues and reds, with close to the waist designs, cute dresses, feminine gloves, high waisted dresses with full pleated skirts. Very delicate. To the other extreme were the pants: sexy and provocative, with the same red, floral prints and patterns. A collection dominated by nude clothes and soft designs with intricate details or embroidery patterns. A romantic and graceful experience.
A heavy in textures collection, dominated by autumn-Ish colours. We declare ourselves in love with all the trenches, belts and shoes Burberry displayed for us. Plenty of: high and tight waist skirts, form fitting tops and dresses, mid-calf hemlines, pencil skirts – all combined with parkas, hats, clutches or huge bags. The collection had a bit of a 70′s inspiration to it and a lot of mixed graphic prints and textures, tiny wooden beads, plastic shapes, raffia weave. Though it was all about the dark plum shades and colours (forest greens, deep grapes and plums, bronze, brown) the collection had some orange, purple and blue accents to it. A very British vibe to it all!
Bell shapes and vibrant colours make way! The runway was packed with wide drop waisted skirts, bell shaped sleeves, elastic waisted trousers, high waisted pencil skirts, sack skirts, rope belts. One thing I loved about this designer it was the courage to use colours. Eye-popping, eye-catching, vibrant bold colours and shapes dominated the runway: bright pinks, turquoise, orange, blue. I also enjoyed a lot the soft nude colour designs: silk chiffon dresses in pale blue or cream, the slouchy elegant grey, nude, blue pants, the form fitted dark dress. A rich and daring collection.
Osman who is known for minimalism played a little bit with shapes. His collection is for the chic elegant woman, with a fresh sexy attitude. His clothes are structured but loosened up, a lot of play with proportions, asymmetric dresses, fringing, sexy slits, flowing fabrics, scoop necks, dropped waists, oversized bows. And of course clean-cut dresses and lean silhouettes, his signature style. Loved the simplicity and elegance of it all.